* Open the package as soon as possible to ensure fresh air is available to the plants.
* Check the conformity of the goods with the consignment note, informing us if necessary.
* Planting material should be kept cool to avoid freezing, condensation and direct sunlight. Of course not in any room with chemically active substances.
* Both root drying and excessive moisture must be avoided in the same way.
* Planting material should have the ability to slowly adapt to temperature and light.
* Potted plants should be placed in an upright position in a dark place when unpacking.
* The condition of the plant material is checked at least once a day.
* Bare rooted plants that have begun to grow should be planted immediately.
* If for some reason it is not possible to plant the plant material on the site, it should be planted in pots or other (other) temporary site.
NB! Please do not leave the plant material in boxes and bags longer than absolutely necessary as storage will reduce the viability of each species. Storing bare rootstocks, frigate plants and lily bulbs at temperatures above 2-8 degrees Celsius and low humidity can dramatically reduce viability.
* The better the soil is prepared for in the growing area, the faster the plants will take root, begin intensive growth and acquire variety-specific characteristics.
* Of course, the planting area is completely cleared of root grasses, rocks and other debris before planting garden plants.
* Watering after planting is also necessary in cloudy weather to allow the roots of the plants to better contact with soil particles. Except for potting of washed bare rootstocks.
* The planting hole must allow the roots to be spread straight, descending and radially.
* When planting woody plants, support may be necessary.
* If the authenticity of the varieties is important and the plants to be planted are used as parent plants for propagation material, we recommend that the sites of the plants are marked and included in the plan.
* It is important to leave enough space for the plants to grow. Plants spreading by rhizomes should be placed in a separate growing area to prevent them growing into one another, or other appropriate competition between plants should be organized.
* It is a good time since March for potting the bare root material for early growth. This requires the existence of a greenhouse or other suitable space.
* Bare rooted perennials can be planted directly on the site in spring, from the end of the night frost until June. In this case, it is necessary to have a cool (0 … 4 degrees) storage place for the roots, where they will remain under supervision until planted and kept in moderately moist peat.
* Bare rooted trees and shrubs are planted in April and early May until foliage begins. Berry shrubs and native hedgehogs can be planted even in autumn, even after the leaves have fallen.
* Potted plants (outdoor potted plants) can be successfully planted throughout the growing season. Avoid planting in summer heat when possible.
* The autumn planting season begins in August with the wetter weather and longer nights.
* For planting it is advisable to choose cloudy weather or evening time. A rainy day is fine.
* In summer flowering bulb tubers (gladiolus, tiger flower, crown, most lilies) can be planted from the first decade of May, provided that in late frosts the tides are ready to protect, if necessary, or the tides have not yet reached the ground.
* Bulbs that bloom in the spring (tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils, bright flowers, hatchlings, white lilies, etc.) can be planted from the second half of August, September and October. For later planting, increase the planting depth and / or use winter cover.
* Seeding should follow the instructions on the packages.
* Plant growth requirements should be taken into account when selecting a planting site. Only in a plant-friendly location do they thrive, demonstrating all the varietal characteristics. Plants grown in suitable locations are healthy, good-looking and weather-resistant.
* Before purchasing seedlings, find out if your garden is the right place for the plants you want.
* plants are divided into:
* Depending on depth of planting depends wintering of plants, resistance to disease and good growth. Consideration should be given to the possible post-planting of the soil and, if necessary, mulch the soil to the required height in the autumn.
* In the case of flower bulbs, there is no need to fear deep planting. (with a few exceptions, such as white lily). On lighter soil, flower bulbs are planted deeper (5-8 bulb size), on heavier soil higher (4-6 bulb size). Only onions planted deep enough do they produce a sufficiently powerful root scheme that can later ensure a variety of lushness and quality flowering of the above-ground parts of the plant. The root system develops intensely on bulb flowers until the ground shoots are in the soil.
* Onion flower tubers are covered with a thin layer of soil (tuberous begonias, sinningia, colored pans, alpine pans, etc.). Representatives of the Amaryllis family usually leave up to half of the bulbs out of the soil (rider star, creeper, raspberry lily, coyote lily, etc.).
* Madonna lily, most herbaceous lilies, most peonies and pearl whorls are planted in a shallow soil layer 3-5 cm deep.
* Deeply planted gladioli do not usually need support even when growing in windy conditions.
* When planting garden irises, the rhizome spine is left out of the soil.
* Perennial rhizomes, such as lily of the valley, some geraniums and astras, can be planted obliquely so that the growth buds are up close to the soil surface.
* When planting roses, leave the graft at a depth of 5-10 cm in the soil. Exceptions are very rare.
* The seedbed for apple and pear trees on a seedbed should be at the soil border or 1-2 cm deeper.
* The germination site for cloned fruit trees should be 5 (10) cm above the soil surface (the weaker the base type, the more important).
* Seedlings with stone fruit leave the graft rather in the soil (about 5 cm), as it is better protected from the winter frost and produces less stumps.
* It is recommended to plant the berry bushes so that the branching area is left in the soil and also the plants that have branched off the peat surface of the pot should be placed 5-10 cm deeper.
* When planting aquatic plants, the depth, mobility and other characteristics of the aquifer should be considered in addition to the planting depth. It is important to determine their winter hardiness, whether it be planted in soil or in a pot.
* Seedlings of ornamental trees are planted strictly at the root of the soil border. Ornamental vegetatively propagated cuttings are less susceptible to incorrect planting depth. The (in) rootstock or grafting site of woody plants should usually remain at the soil boundary when planting.
* Too long roots of bare rootstocks are pruned with a sharp knife or garden scissors. Don’t tear !!! The roots should be of sufficient length and should be straight, sloping and radial when planted.
* In the case of strong twisted roots of potted cuttings, the twisted part of the roots (usually the lower part of 1-2 cm) is cut off from the soil ball before planting and the remaining roots are detached. In the case of low twist growth, the roots are detached and, if necessary, truncated.
* When planting woody plants, care must be taken when pruning to keep the root system and crown in balance.
* There is a rule for most herbaceous perennials – fertilization is required, but better less is required.
* Woody plants should be fertilized on a species-specific basis. The fertilizer application of the plants needs to be investigated beforehand. Suitable for roses may not be suitable for conifers, berries, rhododendrons and others.
* We advise you to start fertilizing woody plants only after rooting. In most cases, the next growing year is spring-summer. The fertility of existing soil should certainly also be taken into account.
* If necessary and possible, planting holes in existing soil can be mixed with growth peat and / or well-decomposed compost.
* Overfertilization / underfertilization may not result in plant-specific traits, may reduce winter hardiness, increase susceptibility to pests and may cause growth disturbances.
* It is better to disturb the plants as little as possible during flowering.
* For potted plants, when the plant grows in an optimal size pot and blooms, it can be planted in a garden with a complete soil ball without any problem. It is advisable to prune the flowers, even slightly to prune the roots, for better rooting. The growth characteristics of the plant must also be taken into account.
* When necessary for transplanting, for example moving to another place of residence, the plants are cut off inflorescences and severely pruned to reduce evaporation depending on the root system and general condition of the plant.
* It may be necessary to shade heavily cropped plants after planting for 50-75% for 2-3 weeks. The shading will be removed in the cloudy afternoon.
* Do not allow the roots to dry during planting. Avoid water loss of roots and plant them as soon as you remove them from the box. Be sure to avoid direct sunlight and drafts.
* Plants with thin rootstocks, such as epimedia, phlox, etc., can develop serious damage within 10 minutes and dry up within 20 minutes.
* The substrate should be reasonably moist, ie water is visible when squeezed in the hand but does not drip.
* During breaks the roots are always covered.
* Too long roots are truncated so that they are not twisted or multiple in the pot, but are straight, descending and radial.
* The soil around the roots should be compacted to prevent air pockets from remaining in the pot. At the same time, the fact that the roots need air in addition to water for their growth to grow is to be taken into account. Especially in the post-planting period.
* Soil level could be 1-2 centimeters below the edge of the pot.
* During the rooting period, 1-2 weeks, depending on the plant species, they should be protected from the midday sun.
* Watering a little at first, when the plants start to grow actively, then dare.
* Lack of ventilation can very likely cause fungal problems.
Watering plant material with a fungicide one to two weeks after planting can prevent problems.
The planter must be aware of the fact that all plants, as living beings, may become ill or subject to pest attack at any time. This is normal and everyday occurrence in nature. From a plant health point of view:
* These recommendations are developed by Aiasõber and are limited to the selection of plant material offered for sale by the company.
* Advices are based on our over 30 years of hands-on work experience and insights, backed up by know-how acquired and continuously improved by our employees through professional education.
* We have followed the best practice in gardening to provide honest, professional know-how to all garden lovers in the best possible way.
* Aiasõber is not responsible for any crop risks, plant strikes or deaths associated with the use of the information contained in this recommendation. The responsibility for the successful cultivation of the plants and for having the necessary knowledge lies entirely with the plant grower.
* The growth conditions caused by the surrounding environment and any agrotechnical practices applied by the grower can, at any time, affect the rooting and growth of plants in an unpredictable manner.
* Aiasõber guarantees the quarantine purity of the plant material at the time of dispatch from the warehouse / garden and the authenticity of the variety.
* However, we recommend planting a small amount of moldy or decaying plant material by removing pre-infected parts of the plant, as many plants grow out easily from it.
* When purchasing potted plants with little or no varietal characteristics, we also recommend planting the plants, as many plants cannot develop well under limited growing conditions in the pots. For example, peonies, daylilies, some pearl whorls and hostas, woody plants of the deciduous tree and others.
* You should first notify us of your wish to return the goods, but no later than 14 days after receipt.
* Claims of varietal identity should be made at the time of flowering, fruiting or development of the plants.
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